The infamous suit;
this is a staple in every man’s wardrobe.
You have had a job interview, a business function, a date, and event,
etc. in your suits. Some have even considered
their suits “lucky”. Are your suits
really right for you though? I have seen
so many men wearing suits that are completely out of style, fitting in all of
the wrong areas, leaving me wanting to grab them by the tie and drag them to a
suit store. Women are drawn to a “debonair” man. It may not be every woman’s type, but you
can’t say we didn’t check you out.
Now it’s time for you to be completely honest
with yourself. What is your true body
type? Are you short, tall, heavier set,
or athletic? I tip my imaginary hat to
all you men who illustrate the up most confidence. For example, shorter men, often times have
personalities of men standing 7 feet tall.
Heavier set men carry themselves like you could wash your clothes on
their rock hard abs. I truly admire
those qualities most men portray, however, if you are dressing improperly, you
do not look as attractive as you think.
My simple styling
guide will help you on your next suit purchase, so there is no excuse why you
“can’t” look refined.
The Short Man
·
Be honest with yourself, buy shorter
suits. Buying a longer pant and coat combination
only leaves you looking like your shopped in someone else’ closet.
WHAT TO SHOP FOR:
·
A pant leg with very little break will help you look taller.
·
Show some cuff to
lengthen the look of your arms.
·
A peak lapel
helps elongate your physique.
·
A lower button
stance
creates long lines, and that essentially stretches you out.
FAUX PAS:
·
Don’t wear a longer suit jacket. It just makes
your legs look shorter.
·
Don’t wear fat ties and wide lapels; keep it
slim.
ACCESSORISE:
In your case, less is more. Essentially, the more pared-down you are, the
taller you will appear.
·
Go belt less: If your suit
fits you like it should, your pants will stay right where they should be.
·
Wear a slender style
shoe. You don’t want to look like you
have weights around your ankles.
The Tall Man
·
Your height draws attention
enough. Because of this, it is
superlative to why you should have the appropriate suit for your body type.
WHAT TO SHOP FOR:
· Lighter colors:
this adds width to a narrow frame.
·
A two-button suit:
this style works great on tall men.
Please note that this type of suit has to have relatively high-cut
lapels in order to look right.
·
Just because you’re tall doesn’t mean you
need an extra-long suit size. Try on
a long first.
·
Keep the amount of cuff you show to a minimum.
·
Ask for a decent amount of break in your trousers, so your long
legs don’t look too long.
FAUX PAS:
·
Over sized suits, with padded shoulders are a
big “no-no”. This will create the
illusion that you are frailer than you really are. You want to wear your suit, not have the suit
wear you.
·
Stay away from those ultra-slim ties. You need ties with width to complement your
body type. Not elongate your torso.
ACCESSORISE:
·
Buy shoes with a rounder toe. It will keep your foot size in check. Pointy, slim style shoes will make your feet
look like skis.
·
When tying your tie, make sure you do not
have length left to reach the back loop.
Tailor your ties if they are too long.
·
Belts, quarter-folded pocket squares, and
horizontally striped ties help accomplish a proportional body type and play
down your height a bit.
THE
LARGE MAN
·
Just because you are a heavier set man, does
not mean you cannot look as good as a fit and trim man. It’s all about how you carry your weight,
especially in your suit choices.
WHAT TO SHOP FOR:
·
Pocket Squares are essential for your
suits; bringing the focus to your chest, not your stomach.
·
A Jacket you can button, at all times,
especially when sitting down.
·
Simple, tasteful shirts, avoid plaids and
checks.
·
Flat front pants, put those pleated pants
away please. Flat front pants are
engineered to be comfortable, even without pleats.
·
Ties with width to them.
Proportion to your torso is imperative.
FAUX
PAS
·
Super skinny ties will actually make you look
larger than you are.
·
Pleated pants. Enough said.
·
Larger jackets. Keep your clothes, especially your jackets
tailored to fit you.
·
UN-tucked shirts. If you do this on a regular basis in a suit,
we have a bigger problem.
ASSECCORISE:
·
Braces; also known as suspenders are you and
your suits best friend. Stop trying to
figure out if your pants will be worn above or below your belly. Your pants should float your waist.
·
Buy shoes with a substantial sole. You need something comfortable and solid to
anchor your weight.
THE ATHLETIC
MAN
·
You either naturally have an athletic build,
or you work very hard on your physique.
You should take the same precautions when choosing the perfect suit for
you.
WHAT TO SHOP FOR:
·
Buy a suit that
fits. A solid build doesn’t mean your suit should be a size too large.
·
Two-button jackets
harmonize with the V shape of your torso.
·
Low-collar shirts
work well with a thicker neck.
·
Tailor your jackets; they will most likely
need to be taken in at the sides.
·
Narrow cut trousers. Yes, you can wear them, your chest needs more
room, not your ankles.
·
Thicker thighs? Go for a classic style
pant. Flat front pants will look
nice as long as they leave your athletic legs enough room to move.
·
Shirts that say “Slim” or “Athletic”. You don’t need excess fabric hanging off that
toned midsection of yours.
FAUX PAS:
·
Peak Lapels. Your chest and shoulders are
broad enough, no need to accentuate them.
·
Pocket Squares. It’s unnecessary to draw more attention to
your already proud chest.
ACCESSORISE:
·
Go for a solid shoe. You don’t want anything clunky on your feet,
but you don’t want to look like you are wearing ballet flats.
Now that you have the essentials for finding a suit for
your body type; it’s time to step it up.
We women are constantly keeping up with fashion, finding new ways to
embellish our beautiful genetics. Collectively
trying to feel like we are constantly putting our best and most stylish foot
forward, we also like to attract and retain your attention. It should go both ways. Don’t worry guys; if you take pride in your
appearance and keep up with the latest trends, no one will be knocking on your
door ready take your “man card”. You might get “ribbed” by your closest
buddies, but it’s only a matter of time before they start following your
stylish footsteps. Trust me. You are allowed to enjoy fashion. Do it, and
live it. It’s contagious.
Need extra help? Hire me for full style
evaluation which includes a body assessment.
Once you retain the knowledge of your true body type and styling
suggestions, shopping will be a breeze.
As always, thank you for reading. Share with others, and never hesitate to
leave comments, questions or concerns.
